Stretching along the Pacific coast of Japan’s northeastern Tohoku region, the Michinoku Coastal Trail passes through three regions with distinct types of terrain: marine terraces in the north, rias coastline in the center and the Sendai Plain in the south.

For hikers who don’t have time to walk the entire trail, going section by section is one option ー and one of the pleasures of long-distance hiking.

This section ー 158 kilometers (98 miles) ー features the Michinoku Coastal Trail’s most stunning seascapes.

Highlights: the ocean view from the marine terraces, the scenic area of Jodogahama and Todogasaki, the easternmost point of the main island of Honshu. You’ll glimpse what life is like along the coast, and encounter hand-dug tunnels, traditional fishing-hut settlements (banyagun) and small fishing ports.

There are two main reasons you won’t want to miss this section.

First, the Michinoku Coastal Trail’s northern area is defined by marine terraces while the central section follows the craggy ria coastline. This route passes through Miyako city, which divides those two distinct landscapes.

Second, Miyako is one of the larger settlements along the trail. A long-distance hike isn’t only about walking; interacting with people in towns is also part of the experience. Consider spending a zero day ー a rest day ー in Miyako.

There are regular resupply points along the route. The one exception is the Omoe Peninsula, a stretch of 50 kilometers (roughly 30 miles). Be sure to stock up on food and other supplies in Miyako or Yamada before you start along the peninsula.

• Michi-no-Eki Aonokuni Fudai (Fudai village)
• Kitayamazaki Visitor Center (Tanohata village / Kitayamazaki)
• Lawson convenience store, Iwaizumi Omoto branch (Iwaizumi)
• Suzusei Shoten (Iwaizumi)
• Tagawa Shoten (Taro, Miyako)
• Michi-no-Eki Taro (Taro, Miyako)
• Lawson convenience store, Miyako Kuwagasaki Kamimachi branch (Miyako)
• Michi-no-Eki Miyako (Miyako)
• FamilyMart convenience store, Miyako Tsukiji 2-Chome (Miyako)
• Tsuruha Drug Miyako Isochori Store (Isochori, Miyako)
• Lawson convenience store, Miyako Isochori Ishizaki branch (Isochori, Miyako)
• Yakuodo Miyako Isochori Store (Isochori, Miyako)
• FamilyMart convenience store, Miyako Kanahama branch (Kanahama, Miyako)
• Kawahara Shoten (Otobe, Miyako)
• Yakuodo Yamada Osawa Store (Yamada)
• Michi-no-Eki Yamada “Oisuta” (Yamada)
• 7-Eleven convenience store Yamada Chuo branch (Yamada)
• Bihan Store (Yamada)

This area offers a mix of campgrounds and lodging facilities, making it relatively easy to plan an itinerary around campsites. One notable exception is the stretch between Anegasaki and Gotenzaki, where campsites are roughly 50 kilometers (30 miles) apart. Staying at a minshuku (family-run inn) around Taro can be a good alternative.

※ Links are provided for「MCT Supporters」facilities.

Lodging

• Hiraiga Kaiso (Tanohata)
• Hotel Ragaso (Tanohata)
• Greenpia Sanriku Miyako(Taro, Miyako)
• Nagisatei Taroan (Taro, Miyako)
• Minshuku Jirobeiya (Sakiyama, Miyako)
• Jodogahama Park Hotel (Jodogahama, Miyako)
• Hotel Art City (Miyako)
• Hotel Route-Inn Miyako (Miyako)
• Otobeso (Otobe, Miyako)

Campgrounds

• Kurosaki Auto Campground (Fudai, Kurosaki)
• Aketo Campground (Tanohata)
• Anegasaki Campground (Miyako)
• Aneyoshi Campground (Omoe, Miyako)

Michinoku Coastal Trail Supporters (camping possible by arrangement)

• Nedari Beach Rest Area (Fudai)
• Gotenzaki Nature Recreation Forest Management Building (Iwaizumi, Gotenzaki)
• Hideshima Paddling Club(Jodogahama, Miyako)
• Ijinkan Guesthouse (Takahama, Miyako)

Sanriku Railway Fudai Station: About 60 minutes to Miyako Station on the Sanriku Railway Rias Line, 40 minutes to Kuji Station.

Rikuchu-Yamada Station: About 60 minutes to Miyako Station, 50 minutes to Kuji Station.

Hiking Map Book 2 and 3

• Although the Sanriku Railway runs roughly parallel to the trail, making access and exit relatively easy, the Omoe Peninsula ー including Todogasaki, the easternmost point of Japan’s main island of Honshu ー is isolated and will require careful planning. Buses operate to Miyako Station, an escape option in emergencies.
• The Kitayamazaki area, known for its marine-terrace topography, also has steep ascents and descents. The distances are not especially long, but the terrain can feel like climbing an endless staircase. You won’t walk as far as on other sections of the trail, so plan accordingly.
• Near Tanohata Village, the trail passes through hand-dug tunnels. Be alert for falling rocks and high tides.
• Trail conditions, accommodations, resupply points and Michinoku Coastal Trail Supporter facilities are subject to change. Verify the latest information when planning your hike.

This section between JR Kamaishi Station and JR Sakari Station crosses four historic mountain passes ー Ishizuka Pass, Kuwadai Pass, Rasho Pass and Ayasato Pass ー and offers clues about how people once lived and moved around the region.

Mountain passes are a familiar feature of trails in Japan. Many of these passes were built not for recreation but for more transportation and trade. They connect neighboring communities and are the result of efforts to close distances while minimizing danger.

These mostly unpaved mountain passes aren’t the best place to take in the dramatic ria coastline. But they provide insight into what it was like for travelers centuries ago to travel on foot from one village to the next.

(※Note: As of March 2026, the Ayasato Pass route is closed. Make sure to check current detour information beforehand.)

Resupplying points are available every 10 to 15 kilometers (6 to 9 miles). This should add flexibility to your food planning, though that depends on how much weight you carry.

• 7-Eleven convenience store Kamaishi Matsubara (Kamaishi Station)
• FamilyMart convenience store Kamaishi Matsubara 2-chome (Kamaishi Station)
• Super Mizukami Hirata Store (Hirata Station)
• Lawson convenience store Kamaishi Hirata branch (Hirata Station)
• Watanabe Store (Yoshihama Station)
• Niinuma Liquor Store (Yoshihama Station)
• Sanriku Supermarket (Sanriku Station)
• Lawson convenience store Ofunato Okirai branch (Sanriku Station)
• DCM Nicot Ayasato Store (Ayasato Station)
• Yamazaki Y-Shop Kisain Store (Ayasato Station)
• FamilyMart convenience store Ofunato Akasaki branch (Sakari Station)

Guesthouses and inns can be found near many of the stations along the Sanriku Railway Rias Line, every 10 to 15 kilometers (6 to 9 miles). Working out where to stay along the trail should be straightforward. While there are no campgrounds along this section, the Michinoku Coastal Trail Supporters facility Shiome welcomes hikers.

Lodgings

• Hotel Folkloro Sanriku Kamaishi (Kamaishi Station)
• Kawakoso (Yoshihama Station)
• Minshuku Tomariso (Sanriku Station)
• Okadaso (Ayasato Station)
• Koyokan (Ayasato Station)
• Tsutsumi Ryokan (Sakari Station)

Michinoku Coastal Trail Supporters (camping possible by arrangement)

• Shiome (Sanriku Station)

JR Kamaishi Station: Approximately 110 minutes to Shin-Hanamaki on the JR Kamaishi Line.
Served by the Sanriku Railway Rias Line (Kamaishi Station to Sakari Station)

JR Sakari Station: Approximately 80 minutes to Kesennuma on the JR Ofunato Line.
Served by the Sanriku Railway Rias Line (Sakari Station to Kamaishi Station)

Hiking Map Book 5

• Unpaved pass trails are susceptible to damage from storms and other natural disasters. Check the latest trail updates before and during your hike.
• You will be in remote wilderness areas and should be prepared for possible encounters with wildlife. (I came across fresh animal droppings on the Ayasato Peninsula, but didn’t see what produced them.)
• Trail conditions, accommodations, resupply points and Michinoku Coastal Trail Supporters facilities are subject to change. Always confirm the latest information when planning your trip.

On this section, in northern Miyagi prefecture, you’ll spend a lot of time walking on paved roads. But you will also get superb ria-coast views from the Ogatsu Peninsula, Kamiwarizaki and Mt. Ishiage.

Be sure to stop at the Okawa Elementary School Disaster Memorial Site, in Ishinomaki, where the devastating 2011 earthquake and tsunami killed 74 students and 10 teachers. My visit to the site was one of the most memorable parts of my journey.

Along this stretch, trail supporters abound: the Ochakko Club (a community café and dining space), m.s.s.books (a hiker-friendly guesthouse), and Kokkoya (a fried-chicken restaurant) provide hospitality and companionship for hikers. Make a point of chatting with these local residents who make traveling the Michinoku Coastal Trail a unique experience.

The area around JR Onagawa Station has plenty of supermarkets and convenience stores for replenishing supplies. There are also small family-run shops on the Ogatsu Peninsula and near Kamiwarizaki. While their selection is limited, they’re a useful pitstop for stocking up on extra supplies. Be sure to check their operating hours before you stop by.

It’s possible to carry all of the food you will eat for this 81-kilometer (50-mile) section. One strategy is to carry your main meals while adding to your stash any snacks and local specialties that you find along the way.

• Kamiwarizaki Campground Shop (Kamiwarizaki, Minamisanriku)
• Takahashi Store (Kamiwarizaki, Minamisanriku)
• Fujii Store (Ogatsu)
• Marumago Store (Ogatsu)
• Super Onmaeya (Onagawa Station)
• FamilyMart convenience store Onagawa Chuo branch (Onagawa Station)

There are relatively few campgrounds, but several facilities allow hikers a place to camp. Reservations are often required, so make arrangements in advance. The longest distance between camping areas is 45 kilometers (28 miles), so you might consider veering off the trail and staying at a guesthouse (such as Minshuku-dokoro Magaki).

Lodgings

• Minshuku Matsunamiso (Kamiwarizaki, Minamisanriku)
• Nagashizuso (Kamiwarizaki, Minamisanriku)
• Kotakiso (Kitakami, Kamiwarizaki)
• Urashimaso (Kitakami, Kamiwarizaki)
• Oppawan Terrace (Kitakami)
• Minshuku-dokoro Magaki (Kitakami)
• Kuwahama Fisherman’s Inn (Ogatsu)
• m.s.s.books (Ogatsu)

Campgrounds

• Kamiwarizaki Campground(Kamiwarizaki, Minamisanriku)

Michinoku Coastal Trail Supporters (camping possible by arrangement)

• Kuwahama Fisherman’s Inn (Ogatsu)
• Moriumius (Ogatsu)
• m.s.s.books (Ogatsu)
• Ochakko Club (Onagawa Station)

JR Rikuzen-Togura Station: 90 minutes to Kesennuma on the JR Kesennuma Line, 100 minutes to Ishinomaki (transfer required).

JR Onagawa Station: 40 minutes to Ishinomaki on the JR Ishinomaki Line.

Hiking Map Book 7

• Much of this section is along paved roads. Make sure you’re visible to motorists at all times. In summer, the roads will radiate heat, and shady spots are limited. Be sure to carry a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water.
• Trail conditions, accommodations, resupply points and supporter facilities may change. Check the latest information before heading out.

※The Hiking Map Book lists this route as 117 kilometers (73 miles), but that figure includes around 60 kilometers (37 miles) covered by ferry and water-taxi crossings.

The southern region features a section hike spanning six islands ー the Urato Islands. To get from one island to the next, hikers will need to take ferries and water taxis. The islands offer hikers a variety of landscapes: forests, sandy beaches, fishing ports and rural areas.

Ajishima is called the “Hawaii of Tohoku”. Tashirojima is known for having more cats than people. Kinkasan is sacred ground, a place of pilgrimage: It’s thought that those who visit three years in a row will never financially struggle. I recommend going off the trail to explore the slower pace of island life, if time allows.

There are supermarkets and convenience stores along the Ishinomaki–Nobiru section. Resupplying on the islands, however, can be difficult, so buy enough food before arriving at Ayukawa Port. Ishinomaki has plenty of places where you can replenish supplies. One strategy to keep pack weight at a minimum is to carry enough food to reach Ishinomaki (18 kilometers, or 11 miles), then restock there for the remaining journey to Hon-Shiogama Station (39 kilometers, 14 miles).

• Watanabe Store (Ajishima)
• Ishinomaki Genki Ichiba (Ishinomaki Port)
• FamilyMart convenience store, Ishinomaki Nakazato 7-chome branch (Ishinomaki)
• FamilyMart convenience store, Yamoto-akai branch (Higashimatsushima)
• 7-Eleven convenience store, Yamoto Akaigawamae (Higashimatsushima)

Lodgings

• Guesthouses (minshuku) on Ajishima, Tashirojima, Sabusawa Island and Katsura Island
• Business hotels (Ishinomaki Sun Plaza, Hotel Route Inn, etc.) in central Ishinomaki city (

Campgrounds

• Manga Island(Tashirojima)

Michinoku Coastal Trail Supporters
(camping possible by arrangement)

• Kibotcha(Nobiru, Higashimatsushima)

Ayukawa Port Bus Stop: 70 minutes to Ishinomaki Station on the Miyakou Bus Ayukawa Line.

Hon-Shiogama Station: 30 minutes to Sendai Station and 50 minutes to Ishinomaki Station on the JR Senseki Line.

Hiking Map Book 8 and 9

Check ferry operating schedules, which can vary by season. Services may be cancelled or changed due to weather conditions. When planning your trip, the Michinoku Trail Club’s detailed guide to the islands is a reliable resource.

• Ayukawa Port to Kinkasan　※Advance reservations available.
  Roundtrip ferry services operate only once or twice each week. Visiting by ferry leaves only about 1 hour and 40 minutes on the island. Don’t miss the return ferry –– camping is prohibited on Kinkasan, there are no accommodation facilities and you might be stranded by days until the next scheduled ferry arrives.
• Ayukawa Port to Ajishima to Tashirojima to Ishinomaki
  Several ferries operate daily. If you catch the first morning ferry from Ayukawa Port, you can spend around two hours on each island and reach Ishinomaki by evening.
• Miyato Island to Sabusawa Island　※Advance reservation required.
  This crossing is provided by local fishermen on fishing boats. Reservations must be made at least five days in advance. Service operates from April 15 to November 14.
• Sabusawa Island to Nono Island to Katsura Island (information in Japanese)
  A free inter-island ferry service operates between the islands. Passengers call the boat operator from the landing point, and the ferry comes to collect them.
• Katsura Island to Marine Gate Shiogama
  Shiogama Municipal Ferries operate six to seven times per day. Reservations are not required and tickets can be purchased at the port.

　　　　　

• Be sure to check the latest information on trail conditions, accommodation options, resupplying spots and Michinoku Coastal Trail Supporters’ facilities before setting off.

“A long trail cannot exist unless hikers walk it.”

I heard those words before my first hike on a long trail. At the time, I thought I understood what they meant, but I didn’t really.

Now, I do. I used to assume that organizations were solely in charge of maintaining a trail. Their contributions are essential. But no matter how diligently they work, a trail without hikers will eventually be reclaimed by nature.

When I hiked the Continental Divide Trail in the US in 2023, I encountered fewer hikers than on the Pacific Crest Trail or Appalachian Trail. In some places, the trail had nearly disappeared; in others, it had become patchy. Maintaining every section along thousands of kilometers (miles) of trail is a nearly impossible task. This is why foot traffic is so important: Every step compacts the dirt and keeps plant growth at bay.

I think of long trails as more than walking paths. They foster culture. Walking is key to the experience, but it’s not everything. If all you wanted was beautiful scenery, there would be few reasons to spend months on a trail because beauty loses its novelty.

It’s the connections people make on a long trail that are special: hikers coming across other hikers along the way and local residents meeting hikers and seeing in those travelers a cause worth supporting. Those chance encounters feed into a shared culture that becomes a virtuous feedback loop of hikers walking the trail and local residents along the route finding ways to help the hikers.

A long trail only has value as long as it’s used. Without hikers to walk the route, local residents lose interest in being involved. Both are vital to keeping the trail going for future generations.

For me, the fledgling long-trail culture that has taken root along the Michinoku Coastal Trail is a promising sign. The presence of thru-hikers who are attempting to walk hundreds or thousands of kilometers (miles) can excite and inspire a sense of wonder among local communities and give them something to cheer for.

During my own hike on the Michinoku Coastal Trail, countless people offered me encouragement. I’d like to think that my journey also inspired people in return. Hopefully, this guide will be the encouragement you need to set off on your own long-trail walk. I wish you a memorable journey!